A True Grit Cowboy Mentor

Branding season makes me realize how years can fly by when in ranching mode and I think back to when I first got here. Luckily I have taken many photographs, or it would all be a blur. I showed up here on the ranch as a total novice - that is for sure. I rode some, for fun, as a kid but was no horseman or cowboy and had not really ridden for twenty years or so. I laugh sometimes when I think of diving in and working and riding alongside long time top hand and cowboy Lyle O'Bryan. Like when I first started roping and we decided to brand without a crew the first spring. If I roped all the calves (along with the winter's worth of work I did) then he would 'pay' me by giving Beau to me (pictured above) as my ranch work horse. Ok, it took a while for me to catch all of them. It was a dry year and Lyle had sold way down so we only branded 150 or so. I would hold them by the back feet while Lyle wrastled them down, by himself, and tied them up and branded and vaccinated them ... the best way to learn is to just do it!

Of course it takes time to learn to rope well consistently, but this was a good start. Another time, that spring of 2003, he tied my rope on hard and fast - meaning tie it in a permanent fashion to your saddle horn - we rode up north to doctor a sick cow. Lyle roped it by the head and said ok get the hind legs - I had never roped a cow before and guess I didnt really think about being tied on ... somehow I got both hind legs on the first loop and was thrilled. Lyle was also tied on hard and fast and stepped off his horse to give the cow its shot then took the rope off the head and told me to ride up and let the hind feet go. I had gotten so used to dallying that I forgot about handling my slack being tied on and got the rope under Beau's leg and down we went - I think I remember laughing about it - now I would probably freak out. Luckily Beau was ok and I didnt hurt his leg but it was a definite lesson on handling my rope. I realize things will never be like that again with everything being so new again. I can now enjoy moments when I realize I am getting better at certain things over the years.

One of the first times I rode on the ranch, in the Fall of 2002, I was helping Lyle work off heifer calves up north. I rode Beau, who was very green, and just the two of us gathered all the cows and worked the replacement heifers off. Beau was drifting to and fro as green horses do - the pasture seemed huge to me - the wind was blowing massively and blowing my hat off. I think at some point we traded horses. It took quite some time to get the job done but Lyle guided and instructed me throughout. I remember falling asleep later, after the ride, in the booth at the local cafe. A good days work for a real greenhorn. I had never experienced such full days until I started working on a ranch.

I rode and worked alongside Lyle - and still do - learning to do whatever he was doing from working cattle, to pulling calves, to doctoring calves, branding, feeding, haying, assisting in breaking a few horses by hazing, riding colts etc ... It would take decades of experience and more guts than I have to reach his level and I, by no means, compare myself to ranch women who have been doing it all their lives. I just do what I do and am who I am. Whatever came up - I wanted to experience it or at least try and learn from Lyle and the other cowboys I worked with. I sometimes remind myself to really listen when I hear him or other cowboys describing things. Such a wealth of information and such a gift -  pay attention and take note.

Landing on Lyle's ranch, as I have mentioned, was a bit like going back in time. It was all cowboy - no shortcuts. And I lived, seven years of my time while on the ranch, without running water ... camp in a simple bunkhouse with only a wood stove for heat and kept it real basic. We scoop cake onto the truck and off the truck to the cattle, we have pitched many large bails of hay by hand, rode everywhere on horseback with no four wheelers on the ranch etc ... It has been a good place for me to learn, being able to work alongside someone while hopefully being of help - big enough but not too big of a ranch for us to handle - well, really what am I saying - Lyle handled it on his own before I got here. And he learned to adapt to doing things by himself. Like tying the steering wheel on the truck then jumping out to scoop cake to the cows - doctoring calves and cows by himself etc ... just takes a little ingenuity and a lot of skill - like many other ranchers in the area.

I definitely didn't land on the set of "Legends of the Fall" or some Robert Redford movie (ha ha) ... no glamour but real true grit all along the way.  It feels good to know I can be of help here on the ranch and to our neighbors. I will never fill Lyle's shoes, or boots I guess, in my new evolving role as 'manager' but at least I will give it a try. Thanks Lyle. ©JEAN LAUGHTON

(Photo: Lyle on Stringy Holding Beau near Horseshoe Butte on the Badure Ranch)

LENSCRATCH

 http://www.lenscratch.com/2012/05/jean-laughton.html

Just back from a 5:30 AM branding on the Brunsch Ranch thirty miles south. Walked in and checked my email and had a nice note from ALINE SMITHSON of LENSCRATCH saying she had posted my story and photographs on her fabulous blogzine. It kind of reminded me, in a funny way, oh yeah I did those things on the ranch and took those photographs. Some days the work trumps art - well many days, and it is a good reminder that I am here to do both - to somehow try and preserve some of the moments and tell the story of the people who I work with. Hope you enjoy the story and be sure to check out the work of many talented photographers on the blog - it is a great site.

Branding TIme Again on the Quarter Circle XL

It is branding time again on the ranch this Friday. It continues to be all about cows cows and more cows this week - getting things lined up. The neighbors will come and help up brand - and after that we can be stress free and enjoy going to help brand at ten to twelve of their brandings. It is a great time of the year.

We have a chuck wagon cook coming again this year so one less thing to multi task and look forward to his coffee cooked over a wood fire along with the other dutch oven food. Breakfast by the fire at 4:30 am and lunch on the prairie following the branding make it easy to feel like I am time traveling.

My thoughts rewind to when I first made my appearance as a total novice - before I got into 'character'. It is hard to believe this will be my 10th branding season. It still feels like I just got here although I have learned so much along the way and hopefully preserved some of it with my photographs. As I step into more of a manager position on the ranch I still look to my business partner and 'old' time cowboy for all the advice and depend much on our neighbors for spring and fall work. It is a good system around here and makes for a strong community - we couldn't get all the work done without their help.

Since I first set foot on the ranch, I have felt like I stepped back in time. I often ride around in daydream mode, thinking about the early day cowboys and brandings on the ranch and how the way we cowboy and brand is not much different from the 1800's. The cast of characters just changes over time. When you stand in the branding corral on the ranch you can see an indentation in the land just a ways away where one of the Thode's had a dugout where they set up camp in order to claim the land for the ranch when it was homesteaded around the turn of the 20th century. I feel I am surrounded by history while carrying on the cowboying tradition on the ranch. Thanks to my friend and business partner Lyle O'Bryan for giving me the opportunity to be a part of it all. ©JEAN LAUGHTON

GO WEST - GONE WEST

"Kid in Burwell, Nebraska" - GO WEST

Above is the scene from John Ford's "My Darling Clementine". This scene inspired me to get a backdrop painted and hit the road to photograph my GO WEST series (1995-2002). http://jeanlaughton.com/html/gowest/index.html

I didn't watch many Westerns but the fabricated reality of this scene and so many from silent movies lit a spark. I wanted to head West and document real people in their western 'costumes' of sort. To pull them out of their current reality into a constructed one. So I left my then home of New York City, starting in 1995, for several summers and meandered about the West in my Bronco loaded with backdrops and my beat up $75 4x5 camera - stopping at selected rodeos and events. To me, this was like walking onto a movie studio back lot with characters straight out of Central Casting - but with the twist of naturally occurring authenticity. This was the beginning of several years of experiences that would eventually lead me to my current ten year ranching adventure. What started as photographing the myth with this series lead to me actually inhabiting it with MY RANCHING LIFE series - stepping into a real life version of the backdrop scene and going beyond the role of spectator.

The GO WEST summers alone on the road were some of the best times - driving throughout the cinematic landscape of the West as an outsider with no ties, with a feeling of awe - watching a continuous ever changing 'drive-in movie' of the West through my windshield. They were such days of discovery for me and the first time I actually stopped someone to ask to take their portrait. Watching me set up my backdrop in the wind behind the scenes and go through the process of photographing each person with the 4x5 and talking at top speed was probably just as entertaining as the rodeo itself and I liken it to some sort of Buster Keaton silent movie scene from The Cameraman.  I mostly did one shot of the people I met in Nebraska, South Dakota, Wyoming, Colorado and Montana. When I asked each person to step in front of my backdrop, it transformed into a miniature movie set and they became the leading actor from the countless legends of the true and imagined West of the past. Their look, stance or clothing evoked many a character from many a movie scene and made me aware of movie characters based on real life and real life based on movie characters and the blur between the two.

I realized that what started my thousands of miles driving throughout the West was a personal photography project, but that eventually morphed into me searching for something. As with many from the past, I headed West to transform my life - moving to the tiny Last Picture Show back lot of a movie set Badlands town of Interior, South Dakota and stepping into my current role.

I have GONE WEST.
©Jean Laughton

Unreal Reality

Riding yesterday inside a real life dreamy version of a Maynard Dixon painting ...Beyond the brushstrokes into what felt like a fabricated reality ... ©JEAN LAUGHTON

The Varying Script of this Ranching Serial

 My Calving Sidekick Cody and Me In Between Takes ...

I feel like I should be riding in a blizzard, out pulling chilled calves in on a sled behind my horse or stressing - like the flashback scenes from last year's calving drama (roll dramatic perilous music). The movie script material and the ongoing narrative in my head may be of a less 'edge of your seat drama' style this year, but I am okay without a repeat performance and am experiencing the versatility of character traits this role brings. It is somewhat mellow (so far) as I sit inside, for a moment, on my lunch break. Sitting in what feels like a three walled silent movie set of a one hundred plus year old ranch house on a vintage couch, with horse heads embossed on it, looking out the window over history laden pastures to a herd of black cows gathered atop a golden ridge munching hay. Of course there could still be a massive April blizzard - or as my old time ranching partner calls it, a real cow killer. Hopefully the script won't call for that particular scene. For now, with my costume of woolies and winter coat hanging as backup off stage, I will get into my role of enjoying the ongoing exterior shots of 70 degree days riding pasture with Cody and Henry - knowing that new born calves are not freezing to death in the night. Every day is like a script rewrite - with new scenarios to act out - all the while remembering to be totally unaware of the camera as I dive deeper into character. Most days enjoying the movie scene like reality while others wishing the reality were just a movie scene where I could yell 'cut!', call in a stunt double and retire to my trailer until the next scheduled shot. But the budget on this production doesn't allow for stunt doubles or stand ins - and my pony is kind of particular who he works with.
© Jean Laughton

And So, Calving Season 2012 Begins ...

Cow Calling George Jones Duet ...

Caking Cows - March 2, 2012 - Quarter Circle XL Ranch
©JEAN LAUGHTON 

Buddy Meredith & The Original Singing Cowboys

Local legend, BUDDY MEREDITH (center) along with award winner JIM LOVELL (on bass) and Chuck Biegler (accordion & keyboard) - THE ORIGINAL SINGING COWBOYS. Photographed here just down the road from Crazy Horse Memorial near Custer, South Dakota - 2006.

Buddy Meredith (born 1926) appeared with his band, The Kota Cowboys (Bob Haley, Stringbean Svenson and Lowell Sterling), every Sunday night on local Rapid City KOTA-TV's  Hoedown Jamboree during the late 1950's and early 1960's.

More Info on Buddy:
http://hillbillycountry.blogspot.com/2011/10/buddy-meredith-on-dixie.html

I first met Buddy in person at a Perkins (while having pie) after a traditional cowboy music show at the Heritage Center in Spearfish, South Dakota. He made a b-line across the restaurant to introduce himself and hand me his business card (it must have been my old time Stetson hat!). From there I met up with him and the band to take this photograph and then had a lovely time interviewing him and talking about the old days. He has since moved south but I do see Jim Lovell play now and then - carrying on with the traditional cowboy songs. ©JEAN LAUGHTON

Calving Season Started a Little Early

 Calving is scheduled to start early to mid March but I noticed Baby did not come to eat when I called the cattle in (she stands out even among a couple hundred cows). So I went in search and found her down at the dam with signs that she was trying to calve or had calved. I figured she either had a calf in her backwards or had 'slunk' it. We had to trail her in and luckily got her and another cow loaded in the trailer instead of trailing them 5 miles home. After an inspection, of which I will not go into detail, we surmised she either had a calf, which was no where in sight, it seemed, or aborted it. Ended up finding a very early calf she had lost a ways from where she had been lying - at least we didn't have to take her into the vet and have a c section. I was hoping for a white faced miniature version of Baby. Guess that isn't very 'cowboy' but ...  Hope to do my best to take care of the animals while they are here on the ranch but realize I can't control everything that happens. More calving stories to come 'As the Prairie Turns' ... ©JEAN LAUGHTON

Percy "Bud" Farm Williams

Old time rancher, Bud Williams, (now 98 / photographed at 94) on his place south of Philip, South Dakota. Bud was nice enough to let me come over and take photographs and have a chat. We talked about his childhood, working cattle, breaking broncs in the Badlands, his wife of many years Birdie, his bronc riding brother-in-laws and more ... here is a small sample. Thanks Bud.
©JEAN LAUGHTON 

Ranching "Polaroid" of Baxter Badure

BAXTER BADURE BUILDING A LOOP. 
BRANDING DAY NEXT DOOR ON THE DEVRIES RANCH - A FEW YEARS BACK. 
©JEAN LAUGHTON 

Preview of Possible Coming Attractions

 

Although calving is inevitably starting in a month - it may or may not be accompanied by snow. We shall see, as it is impossible to predict the scenarios that may arise. This snapshot, like a storyboard drawing come to life, was from a couple calving seasons back when we had several spring blizzards - turning drama to melodrama as we rode in near whiteouts and did our best to save new born baby calves. No second takes allowed. Pictured here is Lyle O'Bryan pulling a brand new calf in with Mama in hot pursuit. I can't say 'My Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys' but they are now - the real ones anyway - and Lyle is the real deal. ©JEAN LAUGHTON

My Ranching Life - The Early Days

Heading out with the Crew on the old Double X Ranch - 2004 or so. The beginning days of photographing from horseback - before the big panorama camera. Early snapshot - early memory - just one scene from a never ending 'filmic' life on the Range.
©JEAN LAUGHTON 

Wrangling Horses on the Quarter Circle XL

This was back in 2005 or so, in the early stages of working on the ranch, when I had just started to photograph from horseback with my Noblex. Following along here as we wrangled horses one morning -  bringing them across the White River and into the corrals - then pulling two out to saddle up and get to work.

Wrangling can be a great way to start the day - just you and the horses. One time I was riding behind a small herd and looked up to see five bald eagles flying overhead. And another time, a single hawk perched above, watching as we trotted by. There is nothing like the sound of your horse and the others making their way through the tall grasses and across the river crossings.

Pictured here is Lyle O'Bryan wrangling off in the distance. He says the best way he would break a young colt is to get them started then start wrangling on them the next morning and just let them fall in and run behind the horses ... It is quite beautiful to watch. I can't imagine how many mornings and how many different horses he as wrangled and colts he has ridden in his 77 years ... and still going strong. Me, I prefer to stay out of a dead run and enjoy the view along the way. (Those old time cowboys are a lot tougher than me). ©JEAN LAUGHTON

Today

 There are a million beautiful places in the world, but this one happens to be it, for me, right now. Gorgeous way to end a peaceful day of feeding cattle and opening water for them. There is a solitude to the routine of winter ranching and taking care of the animals. Being a 'steward', of sorts, is a pretty good job. When you head into the pasture with a load of cake and several hundred cattle come running to you - you feel pretty loved. (even though you know it is just the cake) I still marvel at the way they respond to your call and come trailing in from half mile or more away and call back. Soaking up the view while waiting : hawk flying overhead, horses running on the ridge, big snow cloud moving in from the West, two coyotes running across the prairie and the complete quiet. You can really see the day progress and time seems to move slower. The fact that it still feels like I just got here, even though it has been several years, must be the result of experiencing life in real time or suspended from reality or in the midst of full reality? Whatever it is - it just is. I see all the events of the years playing in my head like a feature film but not sure I could ever convey how it was and really is some days when I stop to take it all in. ©JEAN LAUGHTON

Lightly Dusted Cows & Badlands

Pre Cowboy - The Rehearsal Years

Well, I never I said I grew up as a cowboy, although I did spend a lot of time riding "the range" (later on larger horses ... ha ha) on my Grandma's farm in Iowa - on the edge of the West. Not exactly in cowboy gear here - for shame, riding Tony the Pony in flip flops in stirrups that are way too long - not to mention being out of western costume and looking to be about outgrowing ol' Tony. But, it was still fun. I will pretend my sister is holding this bucking bronc to keep him settled down until I do my 8 second saddle bronc ride (insert big laugh track). It was a good dry run and practice which I sometimes draw from for the Method acting version of my current cowboy role out West.
©JEAN LAUGHTON 

©JEAN LAUGHTON

HAPPY NEW YEAR from Pony and Me ...

And here he is, the star of the show ... PONY ... Lifting his giant size champagne glass to make a toast for a Happy and Healthy 2012. Cheers to you and yours. May your reality be like a dream and your dreams become reality. Happy New Year from my superstar Pony and Me.
©JEAN LAUGHTON 

Cattle Calling Time Again

As someone who is motivated by cake (the chocolate frosted kind) I understand the cattle's excitement to come running for their cake. Today started the beginning of our winter routine of feeding. With a precise cattle call, by Lyle O'Bryan, they came from miles away to snarf it up. (sorry forgot my windbuster for my mic) ©JEAN LAUGHTON